Sunday, 16 February 2014

PINGHE at LFW: pronunciation issues

I must admit I went along to PINGHE not even being able to pronounce the designer’s name. ‘Pinggg...?’ I enquired awkwardly as I presented my ticket. I soon discovered (from those far trendier around me) that it was indeed pronounced as two words ‘Ping’ (which is the designer’s name) and ‘He’. Glad we got that sorted. Anyway, it was Ping’s second fashion scout appearance at fashion week and there was something of a buzz (not to mention a gale force wind) as we waited patiently outside Freemason’s Hall. 

Once we were inside the room blackened and a striking Chinese gong-style arrangement started playing. What with the intricate temple-esque gates carving the catwalk in half it was all a bit creepy and ritualistic. Most exciting. 

The collection was futuristic and all about texture. Chunky wool, fur, perspex, leather; name a material and it was in there. A personal favourite was an immensely chunky red jumper with woven plaits and fake fur shoulder pads. Again, as we’ve seen in a couple of shows the neck was worked high - the roll neck is definitely making a come back as a much cooler version of its former self. Other standouts were little faux fur cropped vests, massive oversized hoods on cropped coats (again, very Eudon Choi) and beautiful mannish but tailored overcoats. 

The whole collection was played out in monochrome and grey with splashes of red and gold. Shoes were those now infamous high tops in gold and cream. Waists were cinched in from a sea of faux fur gilets and deconstructed sheer latex skirts clung to thighs and kicked out fish tail-style from the shins. 

The model casting spoke volumes about the collection, with very blonde wispy girls; hair harshly clipped back school-style with hair grips in a centre parting. Make up was white and waxy; envoking shiny plastic mannequins with a gold wash across eyelids. The girls glided like the undead with expressionless eyes and mournful expressions. All very creepy. 

Ping’s former role as part of Alexander McQueen’s design team really came across with high drama, high glamour and no holding back. She founded PINGHE in 2011 and this is her second fashion week. Definitely one to watch...

Saturday, 15 February 2014

Eudon Choi: LFW love

So I'm not fully throwing myself into fashion week this time around. It seems to have come about rather quickly and I'm just not ready to queue outside in the wind. To be honest work is so busy at the moment that I'd rather be at home, trying not eat chocolate and watching trashy television(how very un-fashion of me). I promise I'll perk up in time for September.

Nevertheless, I'm going to be reviewing a few bits here and there and shall be out and about tomorrow at Somerset House. In the meantime, I spied a collection that has to be my favourite array of garments I've seen parading down a catwalk in a very, very long time. Eudon Choi.

My review is up here on the The London Word but I thought I'd get it up here on the blog too. Let's just say there are school uniform references and pony skin boots. What could be better? An absolutely enormous thank you to the very talented Charlotte White who took these photos - absolutely beautiful. Anyway, here are my thoughts on Choi's rather spectacular offering...

"A collection featuring ponyskin boots with a perspex heel and tassles can never be a bad thing and Eudon Choi’s offering was no exception. But being the clever man he is, Choi didn’t stop at the booties; there were enormous furry snoods, oversized hoods and an overall mod vibe with a rock ‘n’ roll soundtrack to match.
So, first things first. Never did I think I’d use the words ‘chunky roll neck’ together in a positive way. But Eudon Choi can do magical things, roll necks included. Worn under printed jumpers with slim fit cigarette pants the garment was given a whole new lease of elegant life. The polo neck was also reinvented in a second, more stylised way with stiff, shirt collar style neck wraps emerging from tunic tops, loose dresses and varsity jackets; almost like back to front school shirts in white and light blue. This layering ran throughout, with longer blouse-style sleeves appearing from underneath short dresses and jumpers.
I’ve always been a fan of a uniform reference in a collection and this was carried into the colour scheme with a wash of rich navy, black and grey with bright accents of red, mustard and raspberry peppered in; inspiration indeed for our AW14 palettes.
I was delighted to see checks were still de rigeur with masculine double-breasted coats and swing dresses covered in the joyful, intercrossing lines of black watch style tartan. The pattern ran onto parka style jackets sporting enormous fur lined hoods which swung low down on the back. The faux fur was also worked onto huge wraps which were like enormous snoods entirely circling the body and worn low around the chest.
This collection really reaffirmed Eudon Choi ‘s original training as a menswear designer which makes perfect sense in the immaculate tailoring and sharp lines. Mixed with the slouchy feel of the oversized hoods and roll necks, the combination was one that worked with ease.
The 60s mod feel of the whole thing was a real surprise – it felt British, playful and entirely wearable from beginning to end which can be a rare treat at fashion week. Most definitely my favourite yet."

Saturday, 8 February 2014

Little Links (of London)

I tend to lose/break/go off jewellery rather quickly. However, in my old age I've noticed a change. I've been wearing the same bracelets now for quite a while. And liking them. So, I thought perhaps it was time to get something a little nicer to go around my wrist. 

Luckily this revelation coincided with Christmas and I was lucky enough to ask for (and receive) a Links of London number which I'd had my eye on for a while. I went for rose gold as a happy medium to mix with both gold and silver and have been wearing it pretty much ever since. The braiding is a kind of blue/grey and a bit more interesting than a plain black. It's really sturdy and coated to stop it getting too worn. 

My pairing is quite minimal (for me) with just three bracelets as my current accessories of choice. The other bangles are just H&M but I'd love to look out for a nice gold plated number. Next project...

Bracelet/ Links of London

Saturday, 25 January 2014

Velvet and Leaves.

I've talked about this jacket perhaps too much but realised I'd never properly shown it close up which (considering how utterly beautiful it is) is something of a crime. It's from a secondhand shop in Sheffield I frequented on a daily basis whilst at uni there and actually desperately need to return back to. Everything is beautiful- from the deep black velvet, and the carved black buttons to the gold stripes on the cuffs and the flecks of gold foil. Plus it looks excellent with leaves. Little bit in love. 

Friday, 24 January 2014

Knit Me Blue.

It's no secret I'm a fan of a large jumper. I usually go for shorts or skinny jeans on the bottom half - something with a tight silhouette - and I think this pencil skirt does the job quite nicely. I like mixing pastels with an odd colour like this minky, coffee coloured shirt. It adds a nice little surprise element that definitely warranted a little close-up shot. Putting these posts together has made me realise just how much charity shop I wear! Nearly always one item but often double (maybe triple). Like double denim but actually good.

Leather jacket / Warehouse
Jumper / Charity shop
Shirt / Charity shop
Skirt / Topshop
Boots / ASOS

Tuesday, 21 January 2014

The Year in Valentino.

Perhaps because it's January, I cleaned up my laptop a little. Mass delete, mass file. Nice and tidy. In the process, I came across my stash of favourites from the year which was basically full to the brim with Valentino aw '13. Possibly (definitely) my favourite collection of the year year. 

In fact scrap that; my favourite collection ever from any designer to date. And that's quite a statement. But just look at it... Perfection.

Saturday, 18 January 2014

Joyous Proportions: Golden Globes/Emilia Wickstead

I'm not usually one to dwell on dresses worn at premieres/awards/other such occasions but when Emilia Wickstead is involved, I make an exception. How incredibly beautiful (and refreshingly different) is this  blue number on Caitlin Fitzgerald? The longish sleeve, high neck (verging on turtle) and volumous length really shouldn't work but it just does. The proportions are perfection.

It got me looking for other such red carpet wonders and I stumbled across Cate Blanchett in Balenciaga  for the premiere of Blue Jasmine (amazing film by the way) back in July. Again, beautiful proportions, perfectly awkward with the cap sleeves and asymmetric hem but balanced just right with the slim slip skirt. Such wondrous shape. I adore odd, bulky outlines paired with classic tailored shapes. Always unexpected and always a joy. 

Friday, 17 January 2014

Trends best left in 2013

It’s been quite a year. Big things have happened. But the things I have in mind are of a sartorial nature. And many are definitely best left in 2013.
The first was easy to pick and I feel somewhat embarrassed to use the terminology associated with these ridiculous creations. Yes, I’m referring to flatforms. What else has a chunky sole and no allure whatsoever? I’m encompassing a range of horrors here; creepers, lace ups, ballet flats. A number of styles that were perfectly fine before having a huge wedge of rubber attached. Not chic.
Next let’s move to the torso where we’ve been seeing an awful lot of woodland animals on sweatshirts. It was cute for six weeks (we’re only human after all) but now whenever I see a bear or deer on an oversized piece of ‘ironic’ sportswear I die a little inside. Let’s lay them to rest (in a humane manner, of course).
From the torso to the crotch (apologies). Or should I say, the area below the crotch where the low hanging folds of the drop crotch trouser gently swing. The most impossible silhouette to balance, but balance we tried. Vest tops, cropped jumpers, canvas flats. All only serving to make the garment more ungainly, the exercise ultimately proving that this much excess fabric between the legs should really be banned, at least within the confines of the UK.
Unbecoming as they may be, at least these harem atrocities have the fault of too much fabric as opposed to too little. Take crop tops (if we must). Teen belly buttons parading the high streets with smutty slogans and graphic leggings. I blame Little Mix. Paired with hi-tops and bum bags the appalling picture is complete. Let’s leave a little more to the imagination  in 2014.
Next up is something a little more dressy. Or skirty, depending which way you’re inclined. Peplums seemed like such a good idea, particularly when we saw them on Cheryl Cole looking all bright and shiny. In reality, they’re just a cheap silhouette all jazzed up. I myself fell under the spell and purchased a black skirt which never made it out of the house. A great blessing. Let’s stick with sleek and simple shapes in the new year.
Quite a collection of dubious garments, I think you’ll agree. Doubtless 2014 will bring its own challenges in the wardrobe department. 

(Original article on The London Word here)